FIELD NOTES// Horizontal Falls

HORIZONTAL FALLS - WESTERN AUSTRALIA

17.9535° S, 122.2450° E

Horizontal Falls is arguably one of the greatest natural wonders of the world. Lauded by Sir David Attenborough and revered by its First Nations custodians. It is a place of magic and wonder. A place that sparks debate amongst scientists about how it came to be. A place that inspires artists and photographers. A place that encourages travellers, geologists, historians to travel to a remote part of the world for a glimpse.

_____

The journey begins at the arrival to the Horizontal Falls Sea Planes hangar, where I am met with welcoming smiles. Safety briefings are conducted, gear is stowed, life-jackets are donned.

We’re ready.

I climb into the plane, find my seat, hear the engine start and the propellers whirr. We taxi down the runway, lifting off with that familiar bubble of excitement that emerges before any flight. I watch as the ground become smaller, the cars and people disappear into tiny flecks. I’m reminded of similar sights from plane windows, but they pale in comparison, nothing has prepared me for this.

The coastline above Broome comes into view. Electric turquoise ocean, startling pindan coloured cliffs, the gentle blush of pink sand and the pops of lime green trees. The colours so bright they seem unrealistic. Flying low over Cape Leveque, Beagle Bay and Willie Creek pearl farm, the plane dips and hovers. Estuaries reach long tentacled fingers out towards the sea, creating patterns of tree and sand and earth.

Mountains and rocks come into view, speaking of a tumultuous history. Angles jut abruptly towards the sky, rocks slide into the ocean. In the distance are the heaving giants of the sea, spurts of water emerging from their blowholes, appearing like great hulking shadows beneath the water.

Turn a corner and there they are – the Horizontal Falls – two tight crevices of rock forcing water between them.

Landing on the water is something else. A giddiness overtakes my stomach. Butterflies. Part adrenaline, part fear, it conjures up thoughts of water landing preparation (Brace, Brace Brace) and jet-skis. Water splashes up against the sides of the windows.

_____

Part of this experience is being invited to swim with sharks.

I’m so close I can smell the lumps of fish landing in the water with a heavy plunk. The water in the cage rocks and rolls with the swell. The staff allow people to stand up on the railing to get a closer look. I’m so close to the sharks I can see the black, tan and khaki spots littered across their faces. I gaze in awe at the little dangly bits at the front of their mouths and their open mouths.

I can see them tracking their heads back and forth against the cage, searching for their next tasty morsel, noses sensing the vibrations of the fish as it is lobbed into the water beside them.

Too soon, our time is up. The staff careful not to overfeed them – they are wild creatures after all.

_____

Next up is lunch, cooked by the wonderful team on board the floating pontoon.

A beautifully prepared piece of barramundi, lightly flavoured with butter and cooked to perfection. It is paired with a refreshing Greek salad and mustard flavoured potatoes. Warm bread rolls and melted butter form the perfect accompaniment.

The fish melts in my mouth. I close my eyes and savour the moment.

A delight for the senses.

_____

After lunch, we don life-jackets again and climb aboard the high-speed boat that will take us for the next part of the journey.

We take off at speed, the pressure forces me back in my seat. My camera at the ready, fingers already twitching in anticipation.

We round the corner between the behemoth geological structures and the diagonals of rocks come into view. Shades of ochre, rust and cream disrupt the earth. There’s a magic in this place. It exudes calmness and solitude, commands respect.

Sunlight glints off the water.

There’s a rush of exhilaration as the boat speed towards the cliff walls. We bump and skip across the surface, screech to one side and bob there for a moment, watch as the water pools and swirls, causing white frothy bubbles to appear.

I’m amazed by the depth of the water trying to squeeze through the steep chasm. It curves and forces its way through.

We race through the opening a few more times. Back and forth. The adrenaline pumps through my veins. Children squeal. My face is cracked into an open-mouth grin. I grip the handrail and try to keep my camera dry. From the front seat, I have an uninterrupted view of the rocks and the water.

…..

I close my eyes and let the experience wash over me. Sunlight on my face, immersed in nature, surrounded by water. I sit in the presence of these ancient geological wonders.

The magic of this place is tangible.

I’m hooked by the wonder of the Kimberley. I know you’ll find me again in this part of the world – in this lifetime or the next.

_____

NOTES

Smells like:

Saltwater and earth.

_____________________________

Sounds like:

Squeals of excitement and fear. Revered silence. Water rushing – a combination of power and speed.

_____________________________

Looks like:

Swirling turquoise water. Crazy red and orange and rust diagonals of rock sliding into the ocean. Tidal marks against the bottom of the rocks, staining them charcoal and brown, like a shadow running along the base. Sweeping coastlines.

_____________________________

Feels like:

An incredibly special place. Adrenaline. Sacred.

_____________________________

Tastes like:

Buttery barramundi. Potatoes with mustard. Bread rolls slathered with hot butter.